chocolate amaro cake

I wasn’t always a bitter person. But my interest in singling out that particular tastebud over other basic ones has grown from what was once adventurous curiosity to a bona fide obsession. It’s a big leap. I had a childhood love of sweets and soft drinks (hello mouthful of dental work), but now I crave the opposite, along with heated spice and saltiness.

And I’m not the only one. Unlike Italians, who have been cultivating and cooking bitter foods for centuries – think of radicchio, rapini, arugula, and dark-roasted coffee “corrected” with shots of Fernet-Branca – American palates are just now getting caught up with them. [Read more…]

prosecco pears and vanilla bean ricotta

You know what they say about fruit. It’s a gamble, especially now in these last (and not a little brutal) days of winter.

I’m always glad to meet and eat a pear, though. They hold up much better in cold storage than apples, and seem to be created for poaching, their flesh turning silky smooth and luscious.

Wine-poached pears are a great winter dessert, and kind of sexy too. You have to admit pears have the most graciously voluptuous outline in the fruit world, with the possbile exception of peaches and figs.  [Read more…]

hazelnut cocoa crumb cake

Here’s a coffee cake recipe to bake this weekend, ideal for a late breakfast or brunch, for all the Valentines in your house. With the exception of the dog, as much as mine would convince me otherwise (she did helpfully clean up some stepped-on hazelnuts from the floor while I made it).

It’s an all-ages-show kind of cake, neither deeply decadent like a boozy truffle or over the top chocolatey like an oozy lava cake. Although both of those sound pretty good… [Read more…]